the no list - haircare
CHECK OUT THE PROHIBITED INGREDIENTS FOR OUR CAPPILAR LINE FORMULAS:
FORMALDEHYDE RELEASERS
What are they, and what is their function?
Formaldehyde releasers are inputs that slowly and continuously release small quantities of formaldehyde and acts as preservative on the formulation. This class of ingredients can be found on nail-polishers, hair gel, children’s shampoo, soap (bar or liquid), and makeup.
Why not use it?
IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) has classified formaldehyde as a carcinogenic product. Beyond the dangers of formaldehyde, some of its releasers can cause allergic reactions on the skin and eyes.
How to identify it on labels?
DMDM (dimethyl-dimethyl) Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea and Quaternium-15, Polyoxymethylene Urea, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol (Bromopol) and Glyoxal.
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HYDROQUINONE
What is it and what is its function?
This raw material inhibits the synthesis of melanin and is usually used in formulations for the clearing of the skin.
Why not use it?
Hydroquinone causes rashes and can promote bleaching of the skin. One of the concerns regarding hydroquinone is its potential risk of producing benzene derivative after hepatic metabolization. These derivatives cause toxicity to the bone marrow and possess anti-apoptotic effect. However, when applied to the skin, hydroquinone strays away from the hepatic route, being the kidneys its main excretion path through hydrosoluble molecules. Another concern regards the risk of developing renal adenoma due to the potentially toxic metabolites.
How to identify it on labels?
Can be found on labels as Hydroquinone Hydroxyphenyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside
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METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE AND METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE
What are they and what is their function?
They are preservatives used in products such as gel, soap, shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen, deodorants, moisturizing creams, and makeup removal.
Why not use it?
Can cause dermatitis, allergies, and rashes on the skin, being even toxic to the nervous system.
How to identify it on labels?
On labels, it can be found as Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone.
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PARABENS
What is it and what is its function?
Being low cost and easy to have access to, Parabens are preservatives often used on food, remedies, cosmetics, and personal hygiene products.
Why not use it?
Although ANVISA (Brazilian equivalent to the FDA) allows its use, most parabens have been associated to hormonal and endocrine disturbances, and hypersensitivity, in addition to causing potential ecological risk to aquatic environments. Parabens include methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, and benzylparaben.
How to identify it on labels?
On labels, they appear as Butylparaben, Calcium Paraben, Ethylparaben, Hexamidine Diparaben, Hexamidine Paraben, Isobutylparaben, Isodecylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethylparaben, Phenylparaben, Potassium Butylparaben, Potassium Ethylparaben, Potassium Methylparaben, Potassium Paraben, Potassium Propylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Butylparaben, Sodium Ethylparaben, Sodium Isobutylparaben, Sodium Isopropylparaben, Sodium Methylparaben, Sodium Paraben, Sodium Propylparaben, Undecylenoyl PEG-5 Paraben.
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PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS (PFASS OR PFCS)
What are They and what is their function?
The are 3.000 highly fluorinated compounds used in different types of products due to their patch removal capacity, and waterproof products.
Why not use it?
The compounds of this category are considered persistent organic pollutants (POPs), which means they take a long time to degrade, reaching the environment through inadequate product disposal or the disposal done by industries during production. PFCs contamination in humans causes a variety of health issues. One of them is the connection between the presence of PFOA and PFOS in humans and the decrease in size and weight of new-borns. Studies also describe PFOA as a substance that causes liver and immune system intoxication, in addition to hormonal disbalance, especially for the thyroid. Moreover, researchers state that this compound favours the development of liver, testicles, and pancreatic cancer.
How to identify it on labels?
Avoid products that have “perfluoro” or “polyfluorene” as part of the ingredients.
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PHTHALATES
What are they and what is their function?
Phthalates are a group of sterile chemical compounds formed through the reaction between phthalic acid and an alcohol (methanol, butanol, ethanol…) with plasticizer function. They are used in cosmetics and personal hygiene products, being responsible for the glow and fixation of makeup and fragrancies. They are also used in aerosol and cleaning products, and aid in stabilizing cosmetic compositions.
Why not use it?
Studies show that phthalates are involved in the appearance of breast cancer, hormonal disbalance, and decrease in masculine fertility (reduction of the number of spermatozoids). Phthalates ale classified by the International Agency for Cancer Research (IARC) as possibly carcinogenic to humans (group B2). Moreover, they provoke reduction in fertility, abortion, congenital flaws, liver, and kidney cancer. They are also toxic to many species like algae, protozoans, molluscs, crustaceans, and fish, drastically interfering in the ecosystem.
The phthalic esters tend to accumulate in the soil, causing its permanency in the environment and consequent its contamination.
In this context, the contamination of water and soil produced by the inadequate disposal of plastic materials containing plasticizers of the Phthalate type, has generated huge environmental impact Ans consequently great concern to humanity. The European Union has banned the intentional use of Phthalates in cosmetics, only small traces being accepted: when the substance ends up migrating to the products in extremely low concentrations.
In Brazil, despite the existence of many phthalates on the prohibited cosmetic substances list by ANVISA, not all of them are banned. Dibutyl phthalate for example, is allowed for nail polishers if in a maximum concentration of 15% (but fully banned in products aimed at children). Simple does not use any type of phthalate in its formulations.
How to identify it on labels?
On labels, they appear as di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), dibutylphthalate (DBP), dimethylphthalate (DMP), diethylphthalate (DEP), butylbenzylphtalate (BBP). Always keep an eye for ingredientes that end in PHTHALATE.
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TRICLOSAN AND TRICLOCARBAN
What are they and what is their function?
Due to their antimicrobial action, triclosan (TCS) and triclocarban (TCC) are being evermore used in personal hygiene products, such as bactericidal soaps, deodorants, mouthwash, toothpaste, and as preservative in cosmetic products like shampoo and moisturizing cream for skin and hair.
Why not use it?
These are highly contaminant substances, and their final destination, if not collected and treated after use, are domestic effluents and the environment. The presence of these emergent pollutants present adverse effects to the environment and are associated to hormonal disturbances in humans.
How to identify them on labels?
On labels they appear as triclosan and triclocarban.
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PEGS
What are they and what is their function?
Polyethylene glycol, or PEG, are ethoxylated synthetised ingredients, frequently used in cosmetic products due to their solubilizing, moisturizing, emollient, and emulsifying properties, being usually applied in detergents, cleaning agents, and skin conditioners.
Why not use it?
PEGs can cause rashes and sensibility on skins that are prone to those, and facilitate the penetration of other ingredients of the composition. However, the main concern when using this input are the impurity traces during its obtainment process, like 1, 4-dioxane, ethylene oxide, and propylene oxide, substances that are well known for their carcinogenic and high volatility. Since these are impurities, they are not listed as ingredients and therefore their presence in a cosmetic product is not really known or declared.
As an alternative, Simple uses 100% natural origin glycols, which are the safest option
How to identify them on labels?
There are more than 1000 PEGs listed on the data bank of the International Cosmetic Ingredients Nomenclature. Usually, PEGs are accompanied by numbers in their nomenclature: PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-20, PEG-100. These numbers indicate the approximate molecular weight of the compound, and the lower the molecular weight, the easier it will penetrate the surface of the skin.
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BHT
What tis it and what is its function?
BHT (Butyl-hydroxytoluene) is an antioxidant and synthetic preservative used by the cosmetic industry in the production of makeup, skincare, and personal hygiene products. Its main function is to acts as formulation antioxidant, which means it impedes oxidation and inhibits free radicals
Why not use it?
Despite not classified as carcinogenic, this ingredient is a potential allergenic when in contact with the skin, in addition to causing eye irritation, alterations on the immune system, and an endocrine disruptor when in high dosages. Beyond the damage done to our health, BHT is also toxic and considered of high risk to aquatic environments.
How to identify it on labels?
On labels, BHT can be described in different ways: BHT, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylhydroxytoluenum.
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EDTA
What is it and what is its function?
EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) is an ingredient used in cosmetic formulations, remedies, and food, functioning as a chelling agent, meaning that it “kidnaps” metallic ions (calcium, magnesium, copper, iron and manganese), builds complexes and avoid these ions from being free in the formulation, reducing their activity with other components. The usage of EDTA prevents unwanted reactions such as scent alterations, colour change in products, degradation and oxidation of the active compounds of the formulation.
Why not use it?
Although considered to be safe, since it is used in extremely low concentrations (0,01% to 0,1%) and it is not absorbed through the skin, EDTA can directly impact the formulation toxicity. This substance has the capability to increase the penetration of other compounds through epidermis. For this reason, EDTA is considered a harmful ingredient.
How to identify it on labels?
On labels, it is found as EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Edetic acid.
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SULPHATES
What are they and what is their function?
Sulphates are surfactants – Cleaning agents that create foam on the hygiene products – and possess detergent, wetting, emulsifying, foam creating and solubilizing properties. In the formulation, they are responsible for interacting with dirtiness for it to be removed by water. Sulphates can be found in cleaning products and in many cosmetics, such as liquid soap, facial cleaning products, makeup remover, shampoo, and toothpaste.
Why not use it?
Sulphates are capable of modifying the functioning of proteins, go through membranes and provoking toxic effects. Many studies have proven that tensioactives with sulphate groups are irritant to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes, triggering hypersensitivity reactions. Although being often used, the sulphate’s cleaning action is so strong that it removes the natural and essential hydration of the skin, in a process called dislipidification.
This class of ingredients is not biodegradable. When discarded in the environment, they accumulate and become toxic for aquatic animals, negatively interfering in their development and proliferation
How to identify them on labels?
On labels, they are commonly found as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium laureth sulfate. They can also be found as Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Coco/Cocoyl Sulfate, C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, TEA Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Alkylbenzene Sulfonate, Ammonium Xylene Sulfonate, Methyl Cocoyl / Lauril Taurate, Sodium Xylene Sulfonate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfoccinate, Sodium Cocyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Sodium Socoyl / Lauryl / Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Ehtyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate.
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TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
What is it and what is its function?
Tocopheryl Acetate is a Vitamin E acetate and is present in formulations with antioxidant and skin protection function.
Why not use it?
In addition to being a synthetic substance that is available in its natural form in the market, studies have pointed Tocopheryl Acetate as having toxic and allergenic potential for the human skin. Another reason is the fact that this is not a biodegradable ingredient. When discarded in the environment, it accumulates and becomes toxic to the soil.
How to identify it on labels?
It appears on labels as Tocopheryl Acetate.
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