Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in the dermis, intermediate layer of the skin, which is responsible for around 90% of the cutaneous thickness.
While collagen and elastin fibers are responsible for support and elasticity, hyaluronic acid has the primary function of cellular filling.
Due to its capacity of attracting and retaining water, hyaluronic acid grants hydration to the skin. The same way, when our body loses this substance, the region becomes dried out, with apparent lines and lack of support
Our body’s capacity of producing hyaluronic acid diminishes as times goes by. Even though it is a natural process of our organism, there are some factors that accelerate this, such as pollution, solar radiation, poor diet, and lack of proper skin care. This way, when the concentration of hyaluronic acid begins to drop, the first signs that can be seen on the skin are wrinkles, expression lines, loss of vigour and elasticity
One of the most traditional and non-invasive ways of replacing hyaluronic acid on the skin is using cosmetics that have it in their composition, or yet, through actives that stimulate the natural synthesis of the substance.
ORIGIN OF HYALURONIC ACID
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule of natural occurrence, vastly common in animal tissue, such as rooster’s crests and umbilical cords. Traditionally, hyaluronic acid is extracted from rooster’s crests. However, nowadays the active is available in the vegan version, obtained through fermentation of vegetal substrates done by specific bacteria
The obtainment of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, as with the high molecular weight sort, is done through fermentation process. However, the low molecular weight type goes through a posterior stage of bioenzymatic degradation. The enzyme responsible for this process is the hyaluronidase, which degrades hyaluronic acid in lesser fragments, which directly influences its absorption and activity on the skin.
The two types of hyaluronic acid (high and low molecular weight) used in our products formulation are obtained through a sustainable process of natural, vegan, and certified origin
HOW DOES THE DIFFERENCE IN MOLECULAR SIZE IMPACTS THE ACTION OF HYALURONIC ACID?
The hyaluronic acid used in cosmetics has different molecular sizes. But how does this impact this molecule’s activity?
To sum it up, molecules with high molecular weight stay under the skin, since they can not permeate it due to their size, therefore being used as moisturizer. On the other hand, the low molecular weight types can penetrate the skin and reach the dermis (Remember we told you about it up there? The intermediate layer responsible for cutaneous thickness).
There are already studies that show how the smaller forms of hyaluronic acid, beyond granting deep hydration, stimulate the cells to naturally produce hyaluronic acid, being able to significantly improve elasticity, strengthen the skin’s barrier, and soften expression lines.
In addition, secondary activities such as anti-inflammatory, restoration of cells that were damaged by UV radiation, and elimination of free radicals have already been identified and reported.
HYALURONIC ACID ON THE SKIN
- Deep hydration: low molecular weight hyaluronic acid penetrates the skin and has hydrating power for the dermis and epidermis. When combined to a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, it showcases a notable synergic effect.
- Increase in the elasticity of the skin: Studies have proven that the elasticity of the skin increased in 4.6%, 5.2%, and 6.1% after the application of a crème containing hyaluronic acid for 15, 30, and 60 days respectively.
- Reinforcement of the skin’s protective barrier: A study conducted used placebo versus hyaluronic acid demonstrated the thickness of the skin increased in 8.3% after the application of a cream containing hyaluronic acid during a 60-day period. Which means that with a long-term application, hyaluronic acid can strengthen the protective barrier of the skin.
- Wrinkle reduction: It was proven the reduction in depth of the wrinkles in 16.0%, 20.3%, and 25.6% after the application of a cream containing the product for 15, 30, and 60 days respectively. The reduction in depth of the wrinkles was also confirmed in dermatological evaluations after 30 days of application of a cream containing hyaluronic acid. 40% of the volunteers had apparent improvement, and 60% of the volunteers has evident reduction in wrinkle depth after 60 days.